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River crossings on Iceland’s F-roads: the honest guide that still says “don’t”

6 min read

September 08, 2025

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River crossings on Iceland’s F-roads: the honest guide that still says “don’t”

Important safety notice

Zero Car Rental does not recommend river crossings at all. If you are unsure, do not cross. If you still decide to ford, the decision and the risk are yours. Choose the largest, highest-clearance 4x4 you can, use slow, careful technique, and be ready to turn back without hesitation.

What this guide is (and isn’t)

This is a plain-spoken guide for travellers who’ve seen a dreamy mountain hut on Instagram and forgotten that the Highlands are, well, the Highlands. You’ll get realistic plans, safer detours, and the kind of vehicles that make sense for Iceland’s mountain roads. This is not a pep talk to send a crossover into a glacial river.

Mountain roads open late and close early, and conditions change fast. Always verify today’s status with road authorities and safety sources before you go. Start with SafeTravel and the official mountain road info from Vegagerdin.

The house rules you actually need

  • A 4x4 is legally required on F-roads. If the road starts with “F”, assume 4x4 or do not go.
  • Openings are seasonal. They depend on snowpack, melt, surface damage, and repair work, not your itinerary.
  • Rivers change by the hour. Glacial rivers usually run lower in the morning and higher after rain or warm afternoons.
  • If the water is fast, opaque, or deeper than knee level, it’s a no. If you cannot safely walk it, you cannot safely drive it.
  • Turning back is a success outcome. A “nope” is good decision-making in the Highlands.

Two useful buckets: small 4x4 vs tall 4x4

Choose your vehicle based on the hardest part of your route, not the prettiest photo you want.

  • Small 4x4 options are great for rough tracks and long gravel days, but are not intended for deep or fast fords. Common picks include Dacia Duster, Kia Sportage or Toyota RAV4.
  • Tall 4x4 vehicles add real clearance and better approach angles for tougher highland conditions. If your route can reasonably demand more, the safer choices are the Toyota Land Cruiser 250 or the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.

Route cards: best plan, better plan, not today

Þórsmörk (F261/F249, Krossá area)

Best plan: Park before the big fords and take the highland bus. You’ll enjoy the hikes with dry socks and far less stress.

Better plan (experienced drivers only): Some attempt it only with a high-clearance 4x4 like the Toyota Land Cruiser 250, but conditions can change quickly and the consequences are serious.

Not today: Small SUVs should not be attempted here when water is up. If you have to ask if it’s safe, it’s not safe.

Time reality: From Reykjavík, plan at least four to six hours one way if you include scouting and waiting.

Wide view of a braided glacial river plain in Iceland’s highlands under soft evening light.

Landmannalaugar (two ways)

Northern route via F208: This is the tidy option. You can drive as far as the P1 car park without any fords, then walk across the bridge to the campsite and hut. A small 4x4 such as the Dacia Duster, Kia Sportage or Toyota RAV4 is perfect for this.

Time reality: The drive from Reykjavík typically takes three to four hours.

Southern F208: More scenic, but comes with several fords. If you’re in a Toyota Land Cruiser 250 and conditions are dry, it can be doable. Otherwise, stick to the north.

River ford and warning sign near the Landmannalaugar campsite with snow-streaked mountains behind.

Askja (two philosophies)

F88 route: Includes Lindaá, a ford with depth and a soft, uneven bed. This is best left to tall 4x4s like the Toyota Land Cruiser 250.

Safer detour for smaller 4x4s: If you’re in a smaller SUV such as the Dacia Duster, the safer detour is via F905 and F910 when open. It’s still rough and remote, so carry fuel, food, and plenty of time.

Turquoise crater lake beside a moss-covered volcano in Fjallabak Nature Reserve, Iceland

Hveravellir (pools with a plan)

F35 Kjölur: The long gravel backbone of the Highlands. With major rivers bridged, it’s one of the more accessible routes.

Vehicle fit: A Toyota RAV4 or Dacia Duster can handle it if driven with care, while a Toyota Land Cruiser 250 or Jeep Wrangler Rubicon adds comfort and capability over corrugations.

Time reality: From Varmahlíð to Hveravellir, expect roughly 94 km and around three hours.

4×4 driving a lonely F-road across the Icelandic highlands

The 10-second “should I cross?” test

  • Can you walk it safely? If not, don’t drive it.
  • What does the water look like? Wide, braided and slow-moving is better. Narrow, opaque and fast is worse.
  • Is there a clear entry and exit? If you cannot see your line, you do not have a line.
  • Can you turn back without ruining the trip? If no, your plan needs more flexibility, not more throttle.

Technique in one paragraph (for the stubborn)

Low gear. Slow, steady pace. No gear changes mid-stream. Enter where it’s widest and most uniform, and leave room to abort. Let the confident driver go first; watch their line, then choose your own. If the water climbs higher than expected, retreat immediately. And again: don’t attempt this unless you’re experienced.

Quick reference (routes at a glance)

Why Zero makes highland logistics less fussy

All-inclusive pricing with zero excess already covers gravel, sand and ash. You also get unlimited mileage and 24/7 roadside assistance, built in. Online check-in and 24/7 keyboxes at KEF make pickup simple, and there’s always staff at our KEF office if you prefer face-to-face help. For a bigger picture, see 10 reasons to choose a local company. If you’re arriving late or jet-lagged, consider why you should wait to pick up your rental car.

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FAQ About river crossings and highlands

  • Can I reach Landmannalaugar without any river crossings?

     Yes. Via F208 north you can park at the P1 lot before the streams and use the footbridge to the campsite and hut.

  • Is it ever safe to drive to Þórsmörk in my own rental?

    Only with a large, high-clearance 4x4 and when river levels are favorable. Krossá is notorious and frequently unsafe. Many visitors park earlier and continue by highland bus or guided super-jeep.

  • Why does everyone warn me about F88 to Askja?

    Because of Lindaá, a ford that becomes problematic for small 4x4s when levels rise. If you are not in a taller 4x4, use F905 + F910 when open.

  • Does the F35 Kjölur have unbridged river crossings?

    The F35 is a long gravel road but one of the few F-roads with no major unbridged fords, which is why it is a popular conservative detour to Hveravellir.

  • What about insurance if I flood the engine in a ford?

    Water damage is commonly excluded in Icelandic rental insurance, so river fording is always at the driver’s risk. Read your contract carefully and avoid risky crossings.